Explore the highlights and transformative designs of London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024, where innovation meets heritage in fashion’s future.
London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 was a resplendent showcase of creativity, innovation, and the forward-thinking ethos that defines the city’s fashion landscape. This season, both established designers and emerging talents unveiled collections that were a testament to the dynamic and diverse nature of London’s fashion scene. Here’s a look at some of the standout designers from this season’s London Fashion Week.
Dilara Fındıkoğlu: A Gothic Romance
Dilara Fındıkoğlu, known for her theatrical designs and bold statements, made a triumphant return with a collection that merged gothic romance with a touch of rebellion for Fall/Winter 2024. Her show at St Michael’s Church in Shoreditch was a highlight, featuring undone lace pannier dresses and conical-breasted football shirts, alluding to a future shaped by feminine strength and defiance.
Conner Ives: Elegance Redefined
American designer Conner Ives, based in London, presented a collection at the Savoy Hotel that paid homage to the Swans of 1970s New York high society. Moving away from his known upcycled designs, Ives embraced a more mature aesthetic with taffeta skirts, spaghetti strapped tops, and ruched rugby shirts, showcasing his evolution as a designer.
Paolo Carzana: Whimsical Craftsmanship
Paolo Carzana, a Central Saint Martins graduate, displayed one of the most quietly confident collections at the Old Selfridges Hotel. His designs, which transition from delicate mesh body-stockings to structured forms, highlighted his incredible craftsmanship and dedication to sustainable practices, using natural dyes and materials.
JW Anderson: Nostalgia with a Twist
JW Anderson’s collection was a nostalgic journey with a modern twist, featuring 1970s-inspired ensembles with a cozy, comforting mood. The collection included giant knitted shorts and tops, oversized tweed overcoats, and sheer slip dresses with care-home-coded slippers, all playing into a theme of repackaging nostalgia.
Labrum London: A Decade of Design
Labrum London, led by designer Foday Dumbuya, celebrated its 10th anniversary with a show at Tate Britain. The collection was a vibrant tapestry of inclusion, featuring color-block tailoring, technical-detail hats, and collaborations with Dr. Martens and adidas, underlining the brand’s commitment to global migration and cultural diversity.
Simone Rocha: Victorian Elegance
Simone Rocha‘s collection drew inspiration from Queen Victoria’s mourning dress, showcasing her signature exploration of femininity. Held in the medieval St Bartholomew the Great church, the collection featured sheer dresses, faux fur accents, and whimsical toy lambs, blending historical references with modern whimsy.
Erdem: Classical Inspirations
Erdem Moralioglu presented a collection at the British Museum inspired by Maria Callas’ performance in Medea. The designs, which included silk pyjamas and heavily embroidered opera capes, drew parallels between Callas’ life and the ancient tragedy, blending historical and contemporary elements with elegance.
Molly Goddard: Colorful Layering
Molly Goddard showcased her signature voluminous silhouettes at Cecil Sharp House, emphasizing texture, volume, and color. The collection was a lively play on proportions, with layered smocks and billowing skirts in vibrant hues, reflecting Goddard’s unique approach to design.
Roksanda: Architectural Homage
Roksanda Ilincic’s collection, inspired by Le Corbusier’s Le Cabanon, was a blend of rich color play, sculptural details, and woven textiles. Showcased at Tate Britain, the collection reflected Ilincic’s architectural background, emphasizing simplicity and elegance.
Dunhill: A New Vision
Dunhill, under the creative direction of Simon Holloway, presented a collection that revisited the brand’s 130-year history with a modern twist for the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The show featured tailored overcoats, high-waisted corduroys, and tuxedos, highlighting Dunhill’s evolution while staying true to its heritage.
Sinéad O’Dwyer: Office-Core Aesthetic
Sinéad O’Dwyer introduced a collection that reimagines traditional workwear with a modern edge. With a focus on fit and inclusivity, O’Dwyer’s designs included satin shirting and tailored trousers, marking a shift towards a more refined, office-core aesthetic.
Paul Costelloe: Downtown Meets Limerick
Paul Costelloe opened London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 with a collection that blended New York downtown vibes with Irish charm. Featuring cream wool looks, dark tweeds, and navy wools, Costelloe’s designs were a strong statement on silhouette and craftsmanship.