Milan Fashion Week September 2024 was all about bold tributes, archival classics, and the rise of eclectic trends, blending past and future.
Milan Fashion Week September 2024 brought the best of both worlds to the runway: the revival of iconic fashion moments and the reimagining of classic styles. As the world watched, Milan celebrated creativity by blending audacious tributes to fashion legends with forward-thinking innovation. From Dolce & Gabbana’s electrifying homage to Madonna to Roberto Cavalli’s emotional tribute to its founder, the week was an exhibition of fashion as both art and storytelling.
Here’s a closer look at the key highlights and how Milan set the fashion agenda for Spring/Summer 2025.
Dolce & Gabbana: A Love Letter to Madonna
Dolce & Gabbana took centre stage with an audacious tribute to the Queen of Pop herself, Madonna. Madonna’s influence on fashion, especially throughout the 1980s, is undeniable, and this collection played directly into that legacy. The runway overflowed with references to her iconic looks: think platinum blonde wigs, baby-doll dresses, and of course, the infamous conical bras.
This homage to the ‘Material Girl’ captured the imagination not only of Madonna’s fans but also those who appreciate fashion as a medium for rebellion. With Madonna herself sitting in the front row, it felt like an endorsement from the pop icon herself. The designers leaned into her 80s aesthetics, pulling in looks from her Blonde Ambition tour and echoing her lingerie-as-outerwear ethos. The collection’s drama and glamour were palpable, as Dolce & Gabbana succeeded in melding nostalgia with a modern twist.
Roberto Cavalli: Remembering the House’s Founder
Roberto Cavalli’s Spring/Summer 2025 show was a deeply personal and emotional moment for the fashion house. Creative director Fausto Puglisi honoured the late founder by presenting 62 looks that paid tribute to Cavalli’s original vision. This show was about remembering and celebrating the past while pointing to the brand’s future.
The runway featured Cavalli’s signature mermaid and bodycon dresses, emphasising the house’s dedication to sensuality and femininity. These iconic designs were modelled by some of Cavalli’s favourite muses, including Alek Wek and Isabeli Fontana, adding a layer of nostalgia to the proceedings.
But the real highlight came during the finale when seven supermodels, including Natasha Poly and Joan Smalls, graced the runway in archival pieces, celebrating both the founder’s legacy and the evolution of the brand under Puglisi. It was a masterclass in fashion storytelling, as the old and new worlds collided in a seamless blend of glamour and emotion.
Prada: Reinterpreting the Archives
Prada, always one to play with the boundaries between past and future, took a more subtle approach with their collection by diving deep into their archives. This season saw a reimagining of Prada classics, particularly in footwear. Pointy kitten heels, ballet pumps, and Mary Jane shoes were all brought back to life but with modern twists.
The show was a nod to those who have loved Prada for decades, yet it was forward-looking in its execution. Accessories such as the iconic Bamboo bag received artistic makeovers, while ready-to-wear pieces celebrated the classic Prada silhouette but with innovative fabrics and cutting-edge craftsmanship.
Prada’s collection spoke to the idea that fashion is cyclical, and its reinvention of past favourites felt refreshingly contemporary.
Versace: 90s Glamour Meets Disco
Versace continues to dominate Milan Fashion Week with an unapologetic sense of boldness. This season, Donatella Versace reached back into the 90s for inspiration, reinterpreting the era’s body-hugging silhouettes, slip dresses, and fluttery skirts. The runway was awash with Versace’s signature neon greens and bold reds, infusing the show with a sultry, nightclub vibe.
However, it wasn’t just about the 90s grunge-glam. Versace also embraced disco fever. High-octane metallics, shimmering gowns, and eye-catching sequins highlighted the idea that shine and sparkle are back in full force. The collection struck a balance between glamorous retro and modern-day showstoppers, confirming that Versace’s playful, daring spirit remains intact.
AVAVAV: The Art of Performance Fashion
AVAVAV is known for pushing boundaries, and their September 2024 show did not disappoint. In collaboration with Adidas, models sprinted down the runway, turning the traditional catwalk into a high-fashion race track. The quirky, avant-garde nature of this collection was exemplified by the now-infamous four-toed sneakers, which also doubled as handbags.
AVAVAV’s blend of humour and artistry made this show stand out as one of the most memorable moments of the week. The brand’s ability to mix performance with fashion felt cutting-edge and fearless, providing much-needed levity in an industry sometimes criticised for taking itself too seriously.
GCDS: Accessories with a Twist
Accessories can make or break a collection, and GCDS undoubtedly stole the spotlight in this department. Their Spring/Summer 2025 collection, dubbed “Flowers of The Concrete,” explored the tension between urban life and nature. Giuliano Calza, the brand’s creative director, served up a playful yet sophisticated range of accessories that had everyone talking.
Among the most memorable were clear bags with butterflies trapped inside and oversized totes that seemed to melt into the grassy runway beneath. The juxtaposition of the delicate (butterflies) with the utilitarian (the oversized bag) mirrored the collection’s overall theme: nature battling against the harshness of the urban environment. Calza’s accessories were both whimsical and wearable, striking a delicate balance between fantasy and functionality.
Trends: Bohemian, Disco, and Eclectic Accessories Dominate
While individual shows offered distinct narratives, several overarching trends emerged throughout the week. One of the key trends was the revival of bohemian aesthetics. Alberta Ferretti led the charge with flowing, pleated dresses and sheer fabrics, defining what is set to be a significant trend for Spring/Summer 2025. Designers across the board seemed to embrace a certain boho-chic mood, with layers, floaty textures, and fringe playing a major role.
Disco also made a strong comeback, with metallics and sequins dominating the runways of brands like Versace, Prada, and Bottega Veneta. This high-shine aesthetic seemed to signal a collective desire for celebration, glamour, and escapism.
Accessories, particularly those with an avant-garde twist, were another standout. Whether it was GCDS’s surrealist take on bags and shoes or AVAVAV’s four-toed sneakers, accessories this season are about making bold, playful statementsFunctionality isn’t forgotten, but it takes a back seat to creativity and expression.
The Future of Fashion: Past Meets Present
Milan Fashion Week September 2024 was more than just a showcase of new collections; it was a reflection of how the fashion industry continues to evolve. Many designers embraced the past—whether through nostalgic tributes or archival reinventions—while still pushing boundaries in their innovation. This fusion of revival and reinvention is shaping the future of fashion, where the old and new can coexist, reinterpreted for a modern audience.
With bohemian vibes, glittering disco glamour, and a playful, avant-garde spirit defining the key trends, Spring/Summer 2025 is set to be a season of self-expression, individuality, and bold statements. Milan has once again proven itself as a city where fashion’s heart beats strongest, effortlessly blending its rich sartorial history with a relentless pursuit of what’s next.