Evoking a kilted techno-raver splattered in paint, the Moschino show at Milan men’s fashion week is the highlight of today’s shows.
There’s a lot of people fanning themselves on the Moschino runway, and it’s not hard to figure out why. Set inside a largely glazed warehouse (which with the current European heat wave is the equivalent of simmering inside a greenhouse at a 40-degree heat), Moschino’s setting is certainly a lot more eye-catching than Prada’s earlier this morning.
There’s a roughness to the ambience, which reflects Moschino’s alternative essence, and the uneven pavement makes one wonder how just well-trained every model’s footstep must be in order not to trip.
The show begins with a disorienting smoke cloud, from which a model in a yellow and black suit emerges.
Every detail has been curated, even the model’s peculiarly determined walk. We start seeing the runway fill up with a lot of thick welly boots, latex-like gloves, and shades of black.
There are three noteworthy trends throughout the Moschino show. The first is the skirts, which are sported by every-other model down the runway.
Some are plain, some are plaided and some are Moschino’s interpretation of tartan, emulating traditional Scottish kilts.
There is even the inclusion of a belt that resembles the Sporran (aka, the little pouch placed in the Kilt-wearer’s waist) and the use of long boots hints at a kilt-hose.
The second thing Moschino seems to be drawing a lot of inspiration from is surrealist artists Miró and Dalí, with the faces plastered onto jackets, shirts, and skirts as well as the playful platters of colour.
In fact, a lot of the pieces in the SS23 collection seem to be squiggled in paint or graffitied onto the clothing. This could, of course, be a bit of a stretch, but it would come as no surprise since Moschino has been known for playing with surrealist concepts in the past.
There is also a heavy tendency towards leather, cropped tops, and plenty of looks that could get one into Berghain. The music, some type of techno beat, does nothing but reinforce this.
We also see a lot of school-inspired outfits, with ties and skirts that paired with the almost child-like scribbles of paint evoke a certain high-end, edgy school teacher.
Oh, and did we mention the boots? Every single model is wearing some dark version of a chunky-looking boot, and a hat. There is not a single model that is not sporting some kind of headwear; from flat-brimmed fedoras to leather berets.
The one-piece that seems to stand out is one of Moschino’s final looks; a glitzy silver suit accessorized with a black chocker and thick silver chains. A disruptive but effective way to re-capture the audience’s attention after 53 trend-setting looks.
As the show comes to a close, Jeremy Scott walks into the runway wearing a skirt (which again, resembles a kilt) and a graphic misfits t-shirt. He walks the entirety of the runway, unlike most designers who graciously step out for brief moments, and draws the runway to a close with a fiercely powerful walk.