Moschino dismantled the home and turned luxury interiors to life for their autumn/winter 2022 collection.
Yesterday, it was Moschino Creative Director Jeremy Scott‘s sublimely bizarre exhibition that provided a dose of much-needed sartorial escapism yesterday. Anyone who has seen a real-life Moschino show before will be familiar with the fantastical realms he conjures up each season.
For AW22, it was as if he had wandered into an Italian stately home and thought, “I could turn this into a high fashion collection,” and that he did. Scott did so in a very Beauty and the Beast kind of way, with candelabras as headpieces, silver serving trays as bustiers, an evening dress shaped like a grandfather clock and a gown with an entire harp attached at the back. Drawer handles served as buttons and silverware was also stacked down the front of the busts.
The Hadid sisters, both of whom had walked Max Mara that morning, hit the runway for Moschino too – Bella in a bodycon black dress with gold baroque detailing and Gigi closing the show in a dramatic leaf-entwined gold gown. With Gigi pausing to pose with her arms aloft, the scene harked back to the playful fashion displays of the ’80s and ’90s, which was appropriate for such a flamboyant collection.
The beauty was also a visual treat, as it usually is with Moschino. Hair was styled into nostalgic coiffs that were elegantly coiled around the face and down the nape of the neck, with a smooth and shiny finish. The make-up was also incredibly beautiful. Each model’s face was powdered, polished, and matte with peachy hues used to create definition to the cheeks and lips and black wings employed to frame the eyes (a Moschino show signature). The whole vibe was very much rich lady vintage glamour – precisely what we’d want to wear when skulking about a mega mansion.
While it’s entertaining to see Scott go all out for the kitsch, it’s even more fascinating to see what wearability he lays underneath. Moschino is known for its well-cut skirt suits, as well as crisp jackets and outerwear, which you can find hidden beneath the decorative frosting. A velvet gown that folds up to look like a carpet is actually rather stunning. It would likely be considered excessive at any other fashion brand, but at Moschino, where camp reigns supreme, it’s just right.
At the end of the show, we got an insight into Scott’s incredible mind when he came out to take his bow wearing, inexplicably, a vast red space suit (apparently a replica of David Bowman’s in 2001: A Space Odyssey).
One thing is certain: we won’t be inviting Jeremy Scott to any themed parties, because no matter how well we prepare, the man will show us all up.