Is Istanbul a City With an Identity Crisis?
Taste & Travel3 Minutes Read

Is Istanbul a City With an Identity Crisis?

December 17, 2024

Istanbul, the city of bridges: analysing the identities, cultural influences and political evolution.

As dawn breaks over the Bosphorus, a thin mist settles gently on the city, blurring the lines between Istanbul’s centuries-old minarets and its sleek modern skyscrapers. This is a city that is hard to categorise, existing simultaneously as a symbol of East and West, tradition and progress, faith and secularism. Istanbul lives with these dualities, and thrives on them. Yet, this complexity, evident in every corner, street, food stall and market, prompts a deeper question: does Istanbul embrace its multifaceted identity, or is it grappling with a crisis of self?

For millennia, Istanbul has been a confluence of empires, ideologies, and religions. Its cobblestone streets echo with the footsteps of Byzantine emperors and Ottoman sultans, its skyline charts the coexistence of mosques and churches, and its people embody a cultural amalgam unmatched anywhere else. But does this rich heritage unify Istanbul or leave it suspended between competing narratives?

Image courtesy of Daniel Burka

Two Continents, One City

Istanbul’s geography is its most striking feature. Divided by the Bosphorus Strait, it is the only city in the world to straddle two continents. On the European side, neighbourhoods like Beyoğlu hum with energy: boutique shops, art galleries, and rooftop bars speak to Istanbul’s cosmopolitan character. Across the strait, the Asian side is quieter, more residential, with districts such as Kadıköy and Üsüküdar exuding a sense of tradition and community. Together, these two halves create a city where cultures meet, clash, and ultimately coexist.

The Bosphorus is not merely a dividing line but a bridge—literal and metaphorical. Ferries glide across its waters, connecting commuters, families, and lovers. It unifies rather than separates, symbolising Istanbul’s intrinsic strength: its ability to embody multiple identities simultaneously.

The Weight of History

Istanbul’s present cannot be disentangled from its past. Originally Byzantium, it rose to prominence as Constantinople, the glittering capital of the Eastern Roman Empire and a bastion of Orthodox Christianity. For nearly a thousand years, the Hagia Sophia stood as a monumental cathedral—until 1453, when the Ottomans claimed the city and transformed it into Istanbul, the heart of a sprawling Islamic empire.

Under Ottoman rule, Istanbul flourished as a centre of Islamic culture and cosmopolitan life. Its bazaars buzzed with traders from every corner of the world, and its streets were home to Muslims, Christians, Jews, and other communities, living in relative harmony under the empire’s umbrella. This period imbued Istanbul with its layered identity, a tapestry that remains vivid despite the frays of time.

The most radical transformation came in 1923 with the founding of the Turkish Republic. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk sought to forge a secular, Western-oriented nation, and Istanbul became his proving ground. Arabic script was replaced with Latin, the fez disappeared, and religious symbols were pushed out of public life. While these changes propelled Turkey into modernity, they often alienated those deeply connected to the city’s Ottoman and Islamic heritage. Istanbul found itself caught in a tug-of-war between reverence for its traditions and the pursuit of progress.

Politics and Identity

In the years since Atatürk’s reforms, Istanbul has remained a microcosm of Turkey’s broader ideological struggles. In recent decades, the pendulum has swung back towards tradition. Under President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and his Justice and Development Party (AKP), Istanbul has witnessed a deliberate revival of its Islamic identity. The conversion of the Hagia Sophia from a museum back into a mosque was as much a symbolic gesture as it was a political one, asserting an Ottoman-Islamic narrative over the city’s secular republican legacy.

Urban development has also mirrored these ideological shifts. The Çamlıca Mosque, towering over the city’s highest hill, stands as a bold statement of the AKP’s vision. Yet this resurgence of tradition has not gone unchallenged. Istanbul’s younger, more progressive residents—often concentrated in its urban, European side—have pushed back, organising protests like the Gezi Park demonstrations of 2013. These movements reveal a city unafraid to resist the encroachment of conservatism.

This ideological battle extends to education, where reforms emphasising religious studies have sparked debates about whether Istanbul is becoming less secular or simply reclaiming a long-suppressed identity. The city’s schools, like its streets, reflect the ongoing negotiation of its multifaceted self.

Image courtesy of Sena Aykut

Culture as a Mirror

Istanbul’s culture is both a reflection of and a response to its identity struggles. Its artistic and literary scenes have long embraced the city’s contradictions. Orhan Pamuk, Istanbul’s Nobel laureate, captures its melancholic beauty and tension in novels that oscillate between nostalgia and critique. His work portrays Istanbul as a living entity, caught between memory and reinvention.

Meanwhile, Istanbul’s fashion designers draw inspiration from Ottoman motifs and pair them with contemporary aesthetics, creating a style uniquely their own. Its filmmakers explore themes of identity, tradition, and modernity, while its culinary scene serves as a metaphor for the city itself: fusion. Michelin-starred restaurants reinterpret traditional Turkish dishes, while street vendors serve up time-honoured favourites like simit and kebabs. In Istanbul, even food tells a story of synthesis.

Crisis or Strength?

To ask if Istanbul has an identity crisis is to misunderstand its essence. The city’s contradictions are not its weakness; they are its lifeblood. It is a place where a woman in a hijab might share a meal with a friend in a cocktail dress, where centuries-old mosques stand alongside contemporary art galleries, and where the past informs but never confines the present. Istanbul’s identity is not a question to be answered but a reality to be embraced.

The World’s Mirror

In many ways, Istanbul is a metaphor for the globalised world. As nations and cultures wrestle with their own competing identities, Istanbul offers a model of coexistence—messy, dynamic, and profoundly human. It is a city that doesn’t choose between East and West, faith and secularism, or modernity and tradition. Instead, it embodies them all.

Image courtesy of Janosch Diggelmann

As night falls over the Bosphorus and the city begins to glow, Istanbul remains what it has always been: a city of bridges. Not walls. And perhaps, in that, lies its greatest strength. Istanbul doesn’t need to resolve its identity. It is the bridge that connects them all.

Author: Laura Scalco
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